Bob and Ann in Elder Hostel China Odyssey 2004

After early viewing of 1st gorge and buffet breakfast, we docked and transferred to a smaller boat to tour Lesser Gorges up a tributary of the Yangtze, the Daning River. Elder Hostel group was last aboard so we were seated inside on lower deck We all found spots outside to gaze up at the magnificent cliffs and see the old towns and farms along the shore that will be covered with water by 2009. High rise apartments line the banks above villages at the level above the crucial 175 meter line which will be above water. The young river guide extolled the generous government compensation and their larger nice new apartments built for the displaced, but admitted that their parents and older people were sad about leaving their traditional homes and villages and losing part of their heritage. We saw monkeys as they were advertised in their haunts along the shoreline and heard lots of birds, swallows and perhaps orioles. Glimpsed a coffin still high in a cliff slot left there up to 1000 years ago. Three hours later we returned to the Victoria Empress for a hamburger lunch buffet and continued down river through Wu Gorge.

The Serious Crew

On the observation deck there was a display of lovely handmade kites which were flown when wind cooperated and for sale in the bar on the 4th deck. We toured the bridge to see 1st mate steer the boat. A very serious crew of four were intent on their jobs of piloting our vessel on a busy but since partial completion of the Gorges dam in 2001, a less treacherous river.

Ann and Annie at Dinner

After dinner during which we were served generous refills of ‘Champagne’ that upon reading the label ‘sparkling apple cider’ we decided was non-alcoholic we retired to the observation deck to watch us go through the locks. Two hours later we had entered the first lock and been joined cheek by jowl by many other boats and more seemed to be squeezing in. Yang told us that the lock had to be completely filled with boats before the gate would close and there were 4 more locks to go so we decided to get some sleep instead of going to the entertainment cabaret in the bar. We had to be up for 6AM breakfast for 7AM departure for onshore tour of the dam. The time went slowly today because of all of the gorge and lock watching, but it was pleasantly warm into the evening and very relaxing. Now completely engorged we have the 2nd half of Xiling gorge to complete on our Yangtze tour tomorrow.

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