Bob and Ann in Sicily and Italy 2006

Villa Casena Dei Colli

Rome to Palermo - May 28

Caught the #64 bus on Victor Emannuel to the train terminal With luggage in tow we hoofed to the Leonardo Express Shuttle to catch our plane to Palermo. After we deplaned and got our luggage but before we left the area, Ann went to use the restroom and agreed to find the others outside. When Ann exited she checked the info desk and outside, but no folks. After 10 minutes Bob caugth sight of Ann waving from the door outside because she could not reenter the baggage area where they were still waiting for her. Slight panic on both sides but we finally caught train to Palermo. Twenty minutes later we got off at San Lorenzo where directions said our Villa Casena Dei Colli stop was. There were no cabs, no street signs no people to ask how to get to our the hotel which was supposedly down the road a kilometer. Hoofed and dragged in very hot sun but no sign until Bob spotted a guy filling his gas tank and he gestured several turns which took us another 1/2 kilometer to the hotel. Gratefully checked in had a beer, showered and read until our 8 PM hotel dinner. Food was good but at least three tour group dinners were being served at the same time in the noisy dining room. Walked a bit around the resort grounds and turned in.

Museo Archeologico

Palermo - May 29

We took a cab to the Hotel Tonic in downtown Palermo and checked into our comfortable small rooms early and headed for the Archeological Museum, after finding a Farmecia for Bob to get razor blades and throat lozenges. (Poor Bob has a cold and sore throat and barely made it through this valuable museum). After an hour and a half we were all ready to find some Giros but none of the Kepap/Giro shops were open for lunch so we walked Bob back to the Tonic for a rest and the 3 of us sought lunch. Finally got deli sandwiches after much to do. Ellen’s adventurous spirit was still intact but Ann pooped out and headed for the hotel and the Bensons followed. We ate sandwiches in our hotel room. We took off for Palazzo Mirta on Bob’s sight seeing route through the funky market. Mirta was closed but we were near the harbor so visited briefly and walked back to Tonic via an Internet Point. Rested and showered before we met our tour at 5 downstairs. 24 of us plus 2 leaders. Bob’s buddy and mine are mother and daughter from Redmond, WA, Carol and Kate. Walked with Nina through neighborhood, then to La Traviata Sicilian/Tunisian restaurant dinner. Exotic, filling. Back to room and bed by 9.

Chiesa Santa Catarina

Palermo - Hotel Tonic - May 30

Good variety breakfast - strong coffee. Met City Guide, Jackie, at 9 for walking tour of Palermo. First Church was originally a mosque from 10thc. then expanded and embellished throughout the teens to large cathedral of St Mary. Nice Neo Classic interior. Artists depicted Madonna’s virtues - her mother, St. Ann also painted in devotion. Next Church S. Caterina was cloistered Dominican Nuns’ home. Beautiful interior- blue marble among other colors. High Baroque with polished silver altarpiece. Also visited the Catterdale, a twelfth-century Norman style church with a meridian line with sun hole above to follow the calendar. Santa Rosalia, a Sicilian woman was sainted here because of her beauty and purity-(name of next Benson Dachshund).

Walked through the standard market with luscious veggies, fruits, meat and fish on display. Nina bought us a treat of fried chick pea flour-delicious, hot, greasy snacks. Tour with English speaking guide of the Teatro Massino opera house-a lavishly ornamented building with circular echo room illustrating fine acoustics. Off to 2 and 1/2 hour lunch at the Mediterraneo in nearby side street. Delicious and worth waiting for. (See Bob’s fotos). While waiting for others to use Internet, John and I were entertained by a violinist practicing at his open window, even taking bows when we pantomimed applause at ends of pieces. B,E and A to Botanical Gardens was a long walk for minimum show, but the place was huge and had potential. Back to Tonic for 90 minutes rest and pizza dinner after viewing the large eco photo exhibit in Piazza before the other Teatro.

Monreale - Santa Maria Novella


If You Are Happy and You Know it

Scopello via Monreale - May 31

Bussed to St Maria Novella first built by Arabs in 11th c. converted to Norman Cathedral later. Exquisite mosaics in interior and even on columns around cloister - much gold leaf in Byzantine style portraiture in Biblical proportions throughout. Jackie described enthusiastically. Walked to Bellevue for to see Palermo spread out below and witness toddlers circle singing “If you’re Happy and You Know it” in Italian with universal motions.

The sky darkened as we headed toward Scopello. Nina had organized a many coursed gourmet lunch at a seafood restaurant on the way for which the 4 of us substituted a mini version. We walked around a mini park reminiscent of Albany Bulb style on the Mediterranean shore while the rest of the diners gorged on. After checking in to our small but efficient room in Scopello we walked with Nina and Ragen down to the the beach where an old Tuna fishing dock represented the abandoned fisheries due to over fishing by Japanese. Ann and Barbara walked back on road while Ellen, Bob and the rest found a short cut and arrived back much sooner at our little B&B - La Tavernetta . For a no host aperitif in the small village banyo our group followed Nina’s lead and ordered drinks, very strong medicine for a chilly, damp alfresco party. The 4 of us, Barbara and Tom & Sheila dined at lovely seafood restaurant with view of the Sea. Antipasti Rustica was very filling and Sicilian style pasta with tomatoes, cheese, almonds delicious. Ann’s sore throat at bedtime after 11, quelled by sudafed, thanks to Ellen’s medicine kit.

Scopello - Zingaro Nature Preserve - June 1

Ample, quixotic breakfast shepherded by our landlady, large Maria, preceded short bus ride to Zingale Nature preserve. Walked 4.5 miles along the sea, very beautiful, unspoiled beaches of white egg-sized stone. Nina and Kate braved chilly wind and swam briefly while we all tried to capture scant rays of the day. Taverna packed lunches were eaten along trail while our park guide described flora and some fauna. His forte was relating mythology to park features, from Persephone to Daphne and their lovers. Nina bravely translated the brief version of his elaborate Italian love stories. If he can be believed, the scat we saw along the trail is from wolves and small porcupines! (Ann’s plan to swim was thwarted by cold miseries more than weather) At the bus Marizio had driven to meet us we lent a ride to a young dutch couple who needed to get back to Scopello without a return hike. Nina graciously granted the ride and even got them Gelato on the stop that Ann napped through on the way back. Dinner at La Taverna was preceded by a cloud burst. Meal was hearty and very loud. Ready to crash early for dawn breakfast and departure. Bob’s cold better, Ann’s is progressing.

Agrigento - June 2

On the way to Agrigento we made a spectacular stop at Segesta to view an unfinished 5th c .B.C. temple and a 3rd c. theatre on a glorious sunny, clear but windy, cool day. Great opportunity to walk through these well preserved ruins and enjoy spectacular vistas on the tops of the hills on which they were built.

Lunch stop was at Selinute where ruins were tantalizingly in the near distance but not on our agenda! By the time we reached Agrigento weather had become cooler and cloudy. We found our guide and set out on a 2 km walk around some of the 5th c. B.C. temples under restoration. He was excellent and endured with us some rain showers which left the unequipped soaked. At the last giant temple the sun reappeared and we were able to walk through ruins which included a replica of one of several huge“michelen man” sculptures that had once appeared to hold up the immense roof.

Our 4 star hotel, Colleverde Park Hotel, with large well appointed rooms and lovely gardens was quite a contrast after Scopello, We ate dinner on a hill across from the lighted ruins and enjoyed fire works celebrating a Republic Holiday. Lynns found themselves seated at small table with Marizio and Ragen for a bountiful but unexciting 4 course meal. (Tables near us ordered tasty-looking pizza.) Bob is better, Ann is improving, though feeling less than lively. We elected to retire early while the youngsters finished off the wine on the roof terrace at the hotel.

Agrigento to Cefalu - June 3

Good, early breakfast and back on bus for drive to Villa Casale - 4thc. Roman Villa restored enough to view stunning floor mosaics from scaffolding erected throughout. Mythological themes prevailed and a sporting motif understandably as the Villa was used as a hunting lodge. Originally included lavish baths and guest apartments all reduced to decorative floor mosaics- draws many visitors.

We went to lunch outside of Prazza Armenia at an agritourismo serving hearty, delicious Scicilan fare accompanied by ample wine and aqua frissante. We piled back on the bus for the three and a half hour ride to Cefalu where we were housed at the unpretentious Hotel Mediteraneo where amenities are few, but our rooms were equipped with outside clothes drying racks, so much washing commenced!

On our orientation walk Nina prepared us for our free day tomorrow. Very chilly here with brittle sun and some sprinkles made us decide to find an undercover site to explore before dinner. The Norman Cathedral overlooking the town square was just being vacated by a wedding party, the women wearing summer strapless gowns were shivering and blue with cold as we passed the photo session and entered the building. Very plain interior except for altar mosaics similar to those in Monreale. Good pizza at LaBoca and then back to hotel to bring in laundry and crash.

Cefalu - June 4

We breakfasted well before our ascent of La Rocca with Nina leading us level by level: from 6th-13th c. fortresses, Temple of Diana & Church of St. Anna, then more steeply up to the top Fortress/lookout. Brief shower made last leg slippery but it was a short hike and well worth it with a 360degree view if one moved around the crenalated wall. Nina, perched on top, was ecstatic. We celebrated with Espresso and pastry, made sweeter by the fact that we saw no-one on the hike up but on the last few turns of the way down we passed hoards of Italians sweating their way up!

Roamed Cefalu for the rest of the day. While Ellen went to check on John at the hotel, A & B visited the disappointing history museum and found an Internet spot. John was feeling better so we all set out to find lunch along the beach. Decent pizza and beer was leisurely consumned and later after a bit of a beach walk we headed back for a rest before meeting our group for Pupi show at 6. As forewarned the puppet show was traditionally, violent, bombastic and loud with battles and love triangles. At the end we were invited upstairs for a good demonstration by puppeteer and an exhibit of history of Italian Pupi including old pupi. The latter was better than the show because family has been puppet makers/puppeteers for 4 generations with large collection of ornate equipment, the music /player piano collection is a wonder, but we were ready to leave by 7. Led by Nina and Ragen we walked to an overlook of the beach for Proseco toasts, and on to a delightful dinner, especially the risotto with aspargus. Turned in by 10 again.

Cefalu to Taormina - June 5

Drove past Enna, hilltop village where Mary Semiti described classic, unspoiled Greek ruins. Lunch at Murgo winery after impressive tour by owner of modern wine making in Sicily. Meal was great variety of antipasti rustica followed by pasta and meat courses, all delicious if memory serves after wine tasting and much wine with food!

In threatening weather drove to Mt. Etna where at the 5-6000 foot level we picked our way up a foggy trail to Silvestri Crater. Could not see much, but when we left we drove right out of the white out into a splendid panorama of Cantania with the sea beyond. On through lava fields from 2002 eruption and earlier flows left us sobered.

Our Villa Bianca Resort Hotel is overlooking the Ionion Sea across which we can see the toe of Italian boot. On a Funiclar ride up to Taormina town we were launched into Nina’s orientation of the ups and downs of this tourist resort. After traipsing up and down the main street considering options for a light dinner, Bob led us on a search for a panini cafe he remembered from last months cycling tour. After winding around the lower streets on the hill we finally ate at Mama Rosa’s where we watched them skillfully prepare tasty dishes for this large restaurant.

JB has succombed to the cold which has also spread to many on our trip who sniffle and cough together. Another search for cold lemoncello ended back down at a mini market near our hotel. Sat on high terrace sipping and watching the moon peeping through still scattered clouds. 11 or so to bed.

Mt Etna and Coastline from Taormina

Taormina - June 6

7:30 breakfast with very fresh bread and good coffee is served in restaurant below in hotel. Our group funiculared to the town to meet our local guide, Thomaso, who led us to the teatro Greco/romano and eventually the 19thc. Italian amphitheatre. It is built into a hillside with amzing view of the Golfo de Naxos and Mt. Etna, both shining for us on this clear day. All captured digital images, marred only by the elaborate setup for sound and staging of a fashion show in the teatro tomorrow! Thomaso emphasized the combined cultures that had built this gem on the Sea: Greek, Roman, Saracen, Arab, Jewish and Norman influences. Thomaso’s real love is botany, which he demonstrated by identifying some of the flora and its Sicilian history.

Bensons and Lynns toured the lovely, quiet Botanic Gardens left to the city by the Duchi of Cesaro and we scarfed local pastries. Finally found the Panini Cafe we looked for last night and ordered take-away which we later ate on our hotel terrace. Boys read and rested while girls went exploring with a goal to get wet in the Golfo. We waded off a rocky beach across from Isola Bella, but chilly water and treacherous footing nixed a swim. So we found the steps up to Taormina and back-great views again but hot walking and steep stairs left us ready for a shower and rest at hotel. Found a spot for dinner, Delfina, across the street and then returned to hotel deck for Campari and sodas and chats with other RS folk. Dinner was outside and Ann shivered. Ellen had fish soup with ample fresh seafood we all sampled - excellent. Ann’s spaghetti only average - early to bed after packing for early morning check-out.

Taormina to Matera - June 7

Crossed the straits of Messina by ferry and then had a 7 hour bus ride, stopping only for lunch and restrooms, before finally arriving in chilly, cloudy Matera at 5 p.m. Nina had lavishly prepared us for our Hotel Sassi cave hotel rooms, making checking in quite an adventure, including comparing neighbor’s caves. Lynns cave was high on the liveability scale with airy window facing the Cathedral across the valley and overlooking the Sassi with its 6 levels of caves pockmarking the hills above our level. On a 2 hour tour with the local guide we walked out some of the bus kinks and marveled at the Sassi ruins and setting. Ultimately we were too hungry by 8 p.m. to appreciate much after the first sweep: Hill sides covered with caves, and deep ravines topped by green fields; churches and homes carved into rock. St Lucy’s 9th c. church built by Benedictine nuns and occupied later by shepherds and their animals, St Clara’s with bat figures carved on capitals of columns, Purgatorio Cheisa with sculls decorating portal and facade. Nina finally led us, starving and cold, to a warm restaurant and great food consumed with lots of wine. The antipasti was memorable for the variety of fresh stuffed, baked vegetables. Back to enjoy the beautiful lighted history from our cave window and tune into the Taormina Teatre fashion show on TV before crashing.

Matera - June 8

After very continental breakfast with great coffee, each cup processed individually by Hotel Sassi owners, while half our group opted for a free day the rest of us headed for the region of Puglia that makes up Italy’s heel. We enjoyed our visit to Alberobello where we saw Trulli house model museum to learn about how life was lived in these little limestone huts, fabled for their design which permits quick demoltion when the tax collector visits the local lord. Quaint and cozy, the interiors are cavelike and efficient hold a family of 10 and their farm animals with storage in the conical attic. Our visit to a wine shop across the lane featured wine tasting accompanied by arrays of condiments. From our kitty we purchased bottles of the three wines we tasted and many snacks including a nice olive oil. After a quick tour of the commercialized Trulli district we settled on lunch in one with good oricetto pasta and broccoli rape-delicious.

By 1:30 we assembled at the bus parking and Maurizio drove us to the Grotte di Castelanna for a nice cavern tour with few visitors. The largest room had a hole in the top about 80 meters up from which the sun glanced in creating a meridian calendar on the cave walls. By 5 p.m. we were back in our cozy cave and we shared a bottle of our wine and snacks with Barbara in Benson’s party cave. Evening walk around the Sassi and through the city center ended with sweets for Bob and Ellen, tea for Ann and John. People watching in the Piazza. An auto show with displays around Matera featured several futuristic cars in the Piazza, one of which was a snazzy Toyota hybrid.

Matera to Pomeii to Positano - June 9

An 8am departure and few stops for potty and lunch before we reached Pompeii and met Gaitano, our guide at 12:40. Two hour tour was inspiring because of Gaitano’s exceptional love of the Roman Empire and interpretation of the civilization uncovered at Pompeii centuries after buried. He stressed the basic multicultural and democratic nature of Pompeii where all people in all classes participated in social activities, though slaves did not seem to be considered as people. Bob & Ann had large fresh lemon granitas that hit the spot after the hot tour.

We made it to Positano by 4:15. After shuttling in to town to our Hotel Savoia we checked in to our delightful 3rd floor rooms with adjoining balcony overlooking the Med Sea. Nina walked us down to the beach for a taste of shopping opportunities and dinner options. We ate at Seafood Restaurant Campusa on Rick Steves list which lived up to the recommendation of good and plentiful seafood, pastas and salads. On walk back to hotel A bought a silk/cashmere shawl for future trips. Although, a warm day, the evening air was quite cool, but still warm sleeping.

Positano - June 10

Ah, free day so we slept until 7:30 and had great granola breakfast. First walk was with Bensons up the road running by Savoia to check the view from the Sponeto Bus Stop for Amalfi town. Turning up narrow road through Positano was unpleasant walking with traffic and fumes so Bob and Ann took the Beach steps down while Ellen and John continued up Via Marconi. After a futile search for the Tourist Info office to get maps of Positano paths, Bob and Ann returned to Savoia to consult Rick’s guide and eventually Bob found the office and brought a map back to Hotel Savoia so we could plot our town walk to Fornillo Beach and up the stair pathways to the town top. Stopped on our way at the Deli for Panini and bananas and started trek to smaller less touristy beach. Met Ellen and John who had just lunched after walking down the town step pathways from the top! They were headed back to the Hotel and we agreed to meet later.

Our picnic was on the rocks by the Sea at the end of the Beach which had at least one topless sunbather. Up the steep steps in the hills, Bob reading the map and guiding us through quaint, dense neighborhoods perched on the cliffs overlooking the incredible view. Eventually we found our way back down and spotted John reading on his balcony across the ravine. Mmany steps and photos later Ann left Bob at hotel and shopped for souvenirs. Ellen had gotten some shopping in too and we compared pottery and beach coverups back at the Savoia. Dinner was at a nice restaurant at the small beach near where we picnicked for lunch. Good seafood with nice al fresco table seaside. Beautiful evening to trek to our hotel and repack for tomorrow’s early departure for Naples and Roma.

Positano-Naples-Rome - June 11

Took two shuttle tries before we met Maurizio with bus but a quick transfer of bags and people got us on the road by 8:15. By the time we reached Naples and the Archeological Museum rain was falling steadily. Maurizio offered umbrellas for those without rain gear. Ann accepted but we all still got quite damp rushing to meet Gina, our guide at the Museum. She gave us a marvelous quick tour of the Museo highlights including Pompeii mosaics and bronze sculpture from House of the Faun and the secret room of Erotica. A priceless glass jar with white scratched-off design so difficult to execute that the technique has not been repeated since 100c. BC, was a lovely cobalt blue. Also downstairs the Farnase Collection of classical marble sculpture from 1-400c AD was immense.

After some time in the gift shop we collected our rain gear and made a mad dash about 8 blocks through pouring rain to Antica Pizzeria da Michelle for delicious pizza and beer/wine.

After we arrived in Rome it took 20 minutes of maneuvering for the bus to get us to the Hotel Medici. This was a tiny room, but stay was short. Walked via Trevi Fountain to Restaurant Ciampano for our good-bye dinner. Somewhat subdued toasting and nostalgic ribbing of Ragen preceeded big dinner with lots of wine and delicioous panacotta dulce. Many of us followed Nina back on a forced (gladly) march straight to the hotel while the rest took taxis. Said farwells to early departures and enjoyed the luxury of our later one so we could sleep in a bit.

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(Narrative by Ann)