Bob and Ann in Peru and Equador in 2008

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Paddling on the lagoon

We had some rain during the night and a slight drizzle met us heading for breakfast. Today, ponchos were passed out before we made our short trip across the channel to visit the fenced animal preserve that served as a rehab area for the rescue animals that were not yet ready to be returned to their wild habitat. We first walked around the lagoon where we saw some agouti and some large female tapirs grooming each other. We soon shed our ponchos because the forest canopy absorbed all the drops before they got to us. A one-level tower served as a viewing area for the lagoon and we were able to see and hear many birds, mostly oropendulas and yellow romped caciques. Next we each climbed into one of the four boats at the dock and paddled around the lagoon for more views, especially of water flora.

Back at the Lodge we ate a big lunch of beef slices, mashed potatoes, steamed new potatoes, tuna pasta salad and stewed fruit. There were only 3 tables of 8 now because the other guests are gradually returning home. When we first arrived it was slightly unexpected to have other folks staying here with us, but it was sad when they began departing today. Maybe knowing we would be leaving tomorrow caused the melancholy.

One of the butterflies

Down time was passed in hammocks reading or for naps on porches. We discovered a butterfly identification book in the Yarina bar-side library. Alas, images of several stunning local butterflies Bob had taken were not pictured in the manual of hundreds Ecuadorian varieties.

By 3PM we were climbing aboard canoes again headed for cooking school. Landing on a dock across the channel and about two hundred yards down river, we walked up a hill in the forest to a clearing occupied by a native hut stocked to prepare quichuan food on a grill. A young quichuan man painted and dressed in a brief costume was introduced as a tribal shaman. When asked who wanted to be a volunteer for a native cleansing ritual, all of us volunteered, (anything is worth a try to regain our health and youth!). Three at a time sat together as a process involving a cigarette, a leaf switch, whistling and chanting lulled us into a relaxed state, except for some who reconsidered after watching the smoke or those skeptics who could keep their eyes open despite it.

Fish, salsa and black beetle larva on banana leaf

After Pato and Carlos thanked the Shaman and he faded off into the forest, Marcello taught us how to prepare fish in banana-like leaves and how to grill beetle larvae. We were offered samples on leaf plates. Most of us tried the fish. Some managed at least a bite of the larvae, which was crunchy and not bad with salsa.

Rio Napo sunset

By the time we returned to the canoe, the drizzle had stopped. Marcello took us to a broad sand spit on the Napo for a pleasant walk and to watch the sun set. Eventually we all gathered around a large heart that Pato had etched with footprints in the sand and joining hands we heard Pato and Marcello's tribute to our two peoples coming together. Pato repeated his belief that love is the great healer and we all thanked each other for this day. In a moment of silence we could hear far-off birdcalls and faint human voices floating across the water.

We were back at Yarina in time for happy hour and dinner. After we ate, the lights went out signaling entertainment. Marcello and another of the indigenous guides marched in dressed native style, carrying a drum and a guitar-like instrument. They played and sang ethnic music which eventually had us all dancing in a conga line and doing circle dances.